Chimanimani: Birds and Cyclones

Looking less than glamorous Greg and I arrived in Chipinge to sort out Zimbabwe sim cards. We were instructed to produce copies of our IDs to initiate the purchase. Across the road a dingy shop, piled high with expired equipment was the place to action this task. With a strong smell of generator fumes the owner produced 2 copies of Greg’s ID in no time plus US$5. Supply and demand. Back at the Ecotel shop the security guard, pistol on the hip, supervised the complicated transaction. If you’re not in a hurry it’s actually a lesson in resourcefulness. Zimbabweans know how to make a plan and certainly know how to make a deal. Almost the entire process was completed inside the equivalent of a vodashop but with various individuals private cell phones and accounts. Its the only way in a virtual currency.

On arrival at The Frog and Fern we collectively agreed to upgrade our camping option to an open plan cottage including veranda,kitchen, proper beds and bathroom. The thought of setting up tent layered in sand with the air a chilly 9 degrees and rain looming made it an easy choice. Jane, the co-owner of the cottages is an amazing person. I have a huge issue with do-gooders at the moment but that’s a conversation for another day. Jane however, has got the recipe right. An ex PE teacher she believes in sport as a means to empower the youth. By connecting with various stakeholders and donors she facilitates a golfing academy on the once glorious Chimanimani golf course. The Club House has been transformed into a bar with rooms to rent (read knock shop) and the squash court houses the beer store. Local entrepreneurs have set up small holdings, including kraals in the “rough” and each has their own fairway for grazing, no mowing required. The success of the programme can be measured in the delight of the kids we saw playing, in the rain, without supervision or incentive, just purely for the fun of it. The academy has some up and coming stars, one of whom, was practicing his putting. He has a bursary from a Scottish Golf Club and when he was badly injured during the cyclone they rallied together and helped pay for his medical treatment. Real feel good stories.

Jane also facilitates a programme that inspires the youth to become proficient guides specialising in birding. We connected with Timothy for two days and he traipsed us around searching for birds to add to our lists. The bonus of birding is that you also get to see the most amazing places. Our first stop was Bridal Falls, and iconic Zimbabwe waterfall. It was rumoured to have been closed up by rockfalls during the cyclone. Timothy and his friend hiked down, took a video and set the record straight. You can take a look on YouTube if you’re interested. It’s a strange feeling to visit places that, apart from general lack of maintenance, haven’t changed in 50 years. The same picnic tables still stand, well some have moved place thanks to cyclone Adai, and most signboards are as was. This makes navigation a challenge as the Zimbabweans will tell you, “it’s clearly signposted”. What the neglect to say is that many of the signboards are 50 years old and are feint to say the least.