Zomba: Far away tree

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After the luxury of mountain huts and hole in the floor loos we were ready for some camping. Zomba Plateau, Cassa Rossa, with the promise of fine Italian food to compensate for a makeshift bed. Verdict, Knysna’s Italian’s could show them a thing or two. Best Gnocchi ever though and Margie nearly blew her head off when she discovered the garnish wasn’t a gooseberry but a super loaded chili.

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I had read up about the Chikala Pillars, Thinking Chilojo Cliffs I thought they’d be worth a visit. Snowden connected us with Jonas the local guide in Zomba and we were set. I should have known when Jonas asked if we had a 4X4 that the road to the Pillars was one less traveled. An hour later we arrived at the army training camp to be greeted enthusiastically by some chaps in haphazard cammo.

Turns out the enthusiasm was more in the line of extortion but our guide was having none of it. After a protracted negotiation he phoned the top dog at the tourism association who then connected with the Brigadier. Seems it helps to have connections. The army guys were actually reservists and soon backed down when the brigadier came into the picture. Must say it was a bit unsettling when the one “employed”soldier in the group cocked his rifle and took off. Apparently he didn’t want to be associated with the others.

It was blisteringly hot and Margie’s attention wasn’t entirely focused on the Pillars. Reluctant tourist at that point but she did warm to them when she reviewed her photos. I thought they were pretty special even if they are really just a product of erosion. Apparently they have been there for as long as known life. For the community the Pillars are a sanctuary for confession.

As with most places in Malawi you pay a community fee to visit the area. When we arrived there was a chap sitting on top of one of the pillars in the blazing sun. I assumed he was a mental health patient, perhaps finding solace in this peaceful place. Wrong. As we readied to leave he scrambled down and produced a file. He was the community trustee, ready with his invoice in return for cash dollar, or kwacha,

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The Chilema tree with no beginning and no end. A Banyan tree that inspired the site of, you guessed it, a mission station. It’s easy to see the attraction. The tree it’s self is beautiful but most importantly it provides deep shade, a real bonus in 40 degree heat. The canopy is alive with birds, sending us dashing back to the car for our binoculars. With Margie’s thermostat back on track we spent at least an hour in the presence of this awesome tree.

Tradition says that if you steep a piece of bark from the tree and drink the fluid you will be heeled, find peace. This practice has scared the tree but fortunately not terminally. Bridal and other photo shoots rather than a place of worship are the most popular activities within the bounds of the tree. Next door the women of the mission were gearing up for some lunchtime praise and worship songs. A peaceful, warm fussy vibe all round.

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What better way to end our time in Zomba. A sunset G&T at the Sunbird Ku Chawe. The Hotel is perched on top of the plateau, overlooking the plains below. The road facilitates a constant stream of men transporting massive loads of wood back down the hill on their bicycles. Margie tried her best to get a photo but there’s no place to stop on the twisty turny road and the weight of the load propels the bikes forward at an unstoppable speed.