Gail’s 5c on Malawi

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My time in Malawi has come to an end. It’s been an amazing experience. This pint sized country is jam packed with some of the most beautiful places on earth. Bang for your buck. Such diversity. Mountains to hike, rock-faces to challenge, lake of stars, birds a plenty, butterflies, wild beasts and friendly, helpful people always ready to go the extra mile. The warm heart of Africa to be sure. I spent the last two night at Nkhata Bay. An extraordinarily beautiful location. Tonight I’m back in Lilongwe ready to start the Zambian leg. Neville, my brother, arrives Sunday and we start a whole new episode of Game of Birds in South Luangwa. For now here’s my take on Malawi.

Malawi has the most incredible potential but it’s almost like the adults have abdicated their responsibility and left the teenagers in charge. Everything’s there, just a bit adolescent like. After 2 month travelling I’m starting to realise the majority obviously prefer this phase . Don’t we all look back on our twenty something years as being the most fun? Who would want to change? If only we could manage a blend that contained poverty without loosing the carefree vibe.

Most Weird experience: Witnessing the power of hypnotism/ exorcism demonstrated by the Presbyterian praise and worship team in Rumphi.

Most Funny, Shoe’s on the other foot experience: On the way back from Nyika a lady flagged me down. Stop rolling your eyes…….. Yes I stopped. When she had recovered from spinning around like a top, laughing at the Mzungu who had stopped she beckoned to the chap down the road to negotiate. She wanted a lift with her Mielies to the mill. I asked where the mielies could go and he pointed to the roof rack. Fair. It was only 2 bags and a bowl so we cleared the back seat and loaded up. With much giggling the lady climbed aboard Florence, called for her sleeping baby to join her and off we set. About 100m down the road she signaled for me to stop and out she hopped. Next thing a man comes up to my window and explains that he is terribly sorry but the lady has failed in her journey. She is too shy and is afraid that because she can’t speak English I won’t know where to drop her. So much for my good deed. Guess the combo of Gallivanting Gailo and Florence were just too terrifying.

Kindest stranger: The “hotel”I booked into tonight only have the closest main road as their address. Out of airtime and lost I stopped a nice looking young lady, in the 5 o’clock Friday madness, to ask for directions. No problem. She used her phone, called the lodge and asked them to come and fetch me. The Mzungu in a white land cruiser with foreign number plates. 10 minutes later the car arrived and showed me the way. Imagine.

Most incongruous: This afternoon driving through the most rural village a child was flying a kite. Proper diamond shape with a tail. Curious.

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Lessons learnt:

• Bicycles can move mountains
• Electricity, loos and hot water are luxuries
• Blue roads on the map may not be tarred
• Road signs may or may not provide direction
• Chicken will be boiled and then deep fried
• All meals come with green pepper
• Swim with your mouth closed
• Malawians are the Kings of customer care
• Discussion and negotiation. Reaching an agreement that all parties have contributed to. …………….But can I live the lesson. Doubt it, but hopefully at least one sharp edge may have been smoothed.
• Most of all stop being so damned precious, get on and enjoy.

Thanks Malawi. I’ve absolutely loved travelling in your beautiful country.

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