Bangweulu Wetland:Holy Grail of Birds

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Boom there it is. The Shoebill. He or she, we didn’t go into that as apparently it entails an anal examination, stands alone in the bird book. Unique. Prehistoric looking with a strange smirk shaped into his bill. It’s kind of like taking a peak at the Queen. At 92 she’s certainly in the vintage category at least. We had the privilege of 2 sightings of the strange bird. We though he was fabulous but the pro guider and ornithologist who accompanied us the second day pronounced him a rather tatty specimen. In the land of the blind, the one eyed is King. Who cares. Shoebill, tick in bold, font size 24.

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These photos are a bit backwards but electricity and decent internet are intermittent so this post will jump around a bit. Above right the chariot that transported us from Kasanak. 6 hours worth of gravel roads in the heat of the day. Can’t say we didn’t experience the countryside. Fortunately we’d been booked to fly out from the air strip back to South Luangwa. Couldn’t help thinking of old Juggie the Geography teacher explaining the formation of an oxbow lake as we flew over the Luangwa

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Bangweulu Wetlands, home to The Shoebill and thousands of black lechwe transforms from dusty plains to water wonderland during the rainy season. We arrived in possibly the last dry week. All that means is a return trip to experience the wetlands is definitely back on the bucket list. The land looks like it has been leveled scientifically and then carved up, by hand, into a series of walled fish ponds.

African Parks has taken over management and one of the first things they introduced was a fishing ban during the breeding season. Apparently it didn’t go down too well initially but when the local fisherman saw the benefit in improved yields they were convinced. As with many Parks in Zambia, Bangweulu, is a trial of nature verses human need. The mud walls in the photos create the structure for fish traps to be inserted. Our guide explained it is critical for a family to inherit and then closely guard and maintain their section of wall. Without fish the family is doomed to a diet of cassava. Yuk. Just imagine how many fish traps are set if you think of the kilometers of walls with gaping holes every few meters.

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Hard to think this could be sustainable but it seem the breeding season fish ban had already made a significant difference. Another source of conflict is The Shoebill himself. Fishermen, not always within the conservation protocols, enter into a protracted negotiation with the guide each time some new Mzungus appear. It’s a catch 22 and I struggle to think of any system that would be sustainable. If the bird has no value, there is no reason for the fisherman to value it as a resource. If it becomes too valuable visions of “captive” Shoebills spring to mind.

Bangweulu has been responsible for a successful rehabilitation in the past. Chicks stolen from their nests to be sold on the exotic pet market were rescued, hand reared and released. Fortunately it seems with the help of Government legislation the demand for birds has significantly decreased. Our chap was part of the research programme so if you look carefully you’ll see his tag. Brighton, the fieldworker responsible for the care of chicks said they’d last tagged about 4 years ago meaning our bird was almost an adult.

To get to The Shoebill we had to walk on the floating reed-beds. Weird feeling for sure. Sort of like walking on a travelator but with the promise of disappearing into the murky waters below at any stage. I had one leg disappear momentarily but manged to recover without falling flat on my face. I was the only one to sink. Message to self, need bigger feet…………or less weight.

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The staff at Shoebill Island camp were so hopelessly bored. Obviously trained in colonial style pampering, they greeted us with cool hand towels after a dusty safari drive. Carried our bags, cooked delicious food and generally made life so very pleasant. By the way Brett I feel the need for these chairs at 58 Wilson street. I think they’ll compliment the new biltong cupboard perfectly…………….NOT.

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In the words of Arnie…………….I’ll be back