The Lake of Stars

Has nice ring to it, the lake of stars. Nope not an A Lister to be seen. Turns out the stars. are the multitude of fishing boats that go out around sunset. I use the term boats loosely. Some have a motor, usually 15hp. Those ones have a LOT of passengers. Others, makoros, shaped from a solid tree trunk are so narrow that the occupants straddle the vessel rather than sit inside. Seems this is the standard approach to working a makoro. Not sure i fancy my legs dangling in the cool water with hungry crocodiles underneath. We didn’t see any crocs in the lake but thanks to the image placed firmly in my mind (thanks Shaun………..not) every swim resulted in a decent cardio workout.

Our residence for the next three days, Nkhudzi lodge. Yes, it is as pretty as the pictures.By dusk and dawn that is. During the day , especially weekends and public holidays, there is something reminiscent of Kathy park. We arrived to the Sunday revelers enjoying the pool. Mappa, our host virtually galloped up the path to greet us. “We’re expecting you, welcome. Don’t worry these guys will be gone by 4.” True to his word, around 4 the taxis started rolling in, signalling the end of the weekend.

It’s amazing how jealous and possessive one gets. This was our spot. But who can stay miffed for long when everyone is really just having a good time. Being friendly, playing with their children, taking endless photos. No one drunk and abusive, no smashed bottles, no litter left behind.

Mappa and his sidekick work from 7H30 to closing time. Closing time is at the discretion of the guests. Nkhudzi, actually Malawi , really understand the concept of customer service. The rooms were luxurious for Margie and I. Flushing loo and hot shower en-suite. What more could a girl ask for…………..a snappy mozzie net. Perfection.

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I had chosen to be far from the maddening crowd. Cape Maclear. A short drive away, Cape Maclear has evolved into a tourist hub. The shoreline is packed with humans of all kinds. Fancy Ilovo staff retreats, makeshift shacks and a gazillion backpacker lodges. Totally unrecognizable 30 years down the track. Brett and I honeymooned in Malawi. Then Cape Maclear was humanless.

The Funky Cichlid was to be our breakfast spot. Lawrence had a school connection and Shaun had given me his mate Skeg’s, contact details for in case. Same person, small world. On the way in, a smiley chap in a red t shirt jumped in front of the car. Can’t fault these guys pursuit of business. We struck a deal, US$20 per person for a boat trip, snorkel and Fish eagle feeding. Our vessel, the Honey guide. Nothing sweeter than honey.

After a ten minute delay coaxing the flooded engine to life we spluttered off. Bargain, Honey Guide had shade. We chugged off to the near by island, waved our Park fee receipt at the officials on the rocks and lowered ourselves into the water. As we hit the water Petersen tossed a lump of bread in and the water erupted in a neon blue swirl. Not eco friendly at all, but oh so pretty. The water is clear and warm, the fish are beautiful. What more could you want. Cue fish eagles. There is literally a Fish eagle in every tree around Cape Maclear. Peterson tossed a few fish out for them and they duly performed. Mesmerising. Obviously I’d left my camera on dry land, so the best I could do was with my phone. Sometimes it’s more rewarding to just be in the moment, not behind the lens.

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Part of my Malawi mission was to return to where Brett and I went on honeymoon. Only problem was that we couldn’t agree (how unusual) on the place we stayed. The day dedicated to unraveling the mystery, Mother’s Day , a public holiday in Malawi. Every spot had something going on, and lots of Mothers celebrating. After viewing both options I settled on Club Makakola. Brett’s choice. I admit I was wrong.

Club Makakola has morphed into a 5 star luxury resort with the rating $$$$ in the guide book. Funny thing about all these places, everything looks pristine but just on the other side of the fence, or in some instances just a line, the real world exists. Take a look at the photo below. That’s the Club Mak fence, followed by a fishing village with a galaxy of stars harboured.

The lake is Life. Water to drink, wash pots, clothes, bodies, cool off, have fun and and. Note to self……remember to swim with your mouth closed. Oh so that’s how I perfected the straight smile……………..

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This is Mufasa Eco lodge. Margie and Lawrence coping with the stress of holidaying in Malawi.

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