We started hearing about Kande Horse all the way back in Zomba. Lovely place to stay. Horse riding on the beach etc etc. I formulated an image in my head that suited the title Candy’s Horses. Nope. Kande is actually a town on the map of Malawi. Surprise. Missed that one during my hours of google searching. Actually, you could be forgiven for missing the town in reality never mind cyberspace. It’s much the same as many of the villages that seem to melt into an endless continuum of humanity.
What sets Kande apart from the rest is an exquisite beach of white sand and the working stables, horse farm Kande Horse.
A quick glance at the photo’s and you’ll pick up the laid back, communal, hippie type of vibe. Grace the manager showed me the fancy spot first, The Nest. Continuing the tour, the blue monkey, complete with a top security (one kick) padlock. Sold. At half the price of the nest it looked more than appealing. Shared ablutions but lately US$ 30 for the luxury of your own bathroom is just doesn’t seem worth it.
Owned by a syndicate of horse loving 30 somethings, Kande Horse is an absolute delight. Supper was prepared by chef Francis. Like so many Malawians, Francis had honed his culinary skills while working in Sandton. Quite simply the best meal yet and vegetarian to boot. Most of the produce is grown in the organic veggie garden. The pigs are for community treats……..sorry babe.
Frankie and Digby (co-owners) were in residence along with Frankie’s BFF from school Jess and Chota an 18 year old volunteer fresh out of A levels. Digby coordinates music festivals so it’s fine for him to be away during the quite months. Frankie can float in and out of her job and Jess can work on line. Easy. Earn in pounds and have a floaty job. Pounds translate very efficiently into Kwacha. A slight hint of privilege but what pleasant company and easily one of my favourite places.
A team of stable-hands take excellent care of the horses. They are groomed and have their temperature taken and recorded daily. Grace, the manager is a veterinary technician, so has a close handle on the animals well-being. On the night shift two guys do hourly rounds to ensure the horses have enough to eat. Who would’t want to be a Kande Horse?
And then there is little Jasper. Grace’s 3 year old son. How delightful to watch a content child at play with his dinky toys. He joins the gang at the nursery school across the road in the morning but afternoons are reserved for a carefree existence in the land of the free spirits. The other night he climbed out the bedroom window to go chat and share Nsima (sadza) with the night watchmen. Grace nearly died of fright when he was returned with a knock on the door sometime after midnight.
Yes horses.,children and most other things live a charmed life at Kande horse.
Close cousin but worlds apart , Kande beach. Home to the overland safari groupies. Idyllic setting, funky bar, OK accommodation but boy am I glad not to be tied up in one of those rigs. While I sipped a green and concentrated on the view my ears were drawn to the group complaining about a fellow traveler. Clearly a pain in the neck with no escaping him for another 2 weeks. I love me my Florence.
Gallivanting with Gailo 